DTC Dispatch #037

LATEST NEWS

Traditional innovation: The history and evolution of fashion at Wimbledon

Wimbledon, known for its rich tradition and history, might seem unchanged from year to year. With its iconic trophies, royal presence, strawberries and cream, queues, grass courts, and all-white dress code, it’s easy to overlook the subtle yet continuous evolution of this prestigious tennis tournament.

However, Malin Lundin, the senior curator at Wimbledon’s Lawn Tennis Museum, would argue otherwise. She oversees over 1 million items housed on-site in southwest London and is responsible for the annual exhibition rotation at Wimbledon.

“The museum opened in 1977 and chronicles the championships from the game's early days in the 1870s to the present,” Lundin told ABC News just before the start of the 2024 Championships. “The museum features interactive galleries showcasing tennis fashion, equipment, decorative arts, ephemera, and photography, all illustrating how lawn tennis has evolved from a Victorian pastime to a global sport watched and played by millions.”

Our take: Wimbledon is famous for its traditions and history, often giving the impression that it doesn't change much. With its iconic trophies, royal attendance, strawberries and cream, grass courts, and all-white dress code, it seems unchanging. However, Wimbledon is always evolving.

Malin Lundin, senior curator at Wimbledon’s Lawn Tennis Museum, highlights this ongoing evolution. The museum, housing over a million items, showcases tennis’s progression through interactive galleries on fashion, equipment, decorative arts, and photography. Lundin’s work reveals how lawn tennis has grown from a Victorian pastime into a global sport enjoyed by millions.

This view is important. While tradition is central to Wimbledon, its ability to adapt is equally crucial. By honoring its past and embracing change, Wimbledon stays relevant and appealing. The museum’s exhibitions reflect this balance, showing both its rich heritage and dynamic present.

Celebrating Wimbledon means recognizing its dual nature: a guardian of tradition and a progressive institution. This blend of history and evolution is what makes Wimbledon the pinnacle of tennis tournaments.

Items to help you stay cool pop on Shopify

In June, staying cool was a top priority for shoppers, with several cooling items seeing significant sales increases, according to data from Shopify shared with Retail Brew:

- Beach mat sales surged by 188% month-over-month.

- Evaporative coolers were up 174%.

- Powered hand fans and misters increased by 164%.

- Child swim aids rose 93%.

Our take: The sharp rise in sales of cooling items in June highlights how climate and lifestyle shifts are driving consumer behavior. According to Shopify data shared with Retail Brew, sales of beach mats surged by 188%, evaporative coolers increased by 174%, powered hand fans and misters by 164%, and child swim aids by 93%. This trend underscores how the market is adapting to meet the growing demand for solutions to beat the heat.

Overall, these sales figures demonstrate that consumers are actively seeking ways to stay cool and comfortable during the hotter months. Brands and retailers that can innovate and offer effective cooling solutions will likely see continued success in meeting this essential seasonal need. The data also suggests a growing awareness and responsiveness to climate changes, indicating that consumers are not only adapting but also investing in their well-being and comfort.

Louis Vuitton names Pusha T as its latest house ambassador

Pusha T has been appointed the newest house ambassador for Louis Vuitton, the French luxury fashion house announced on Monday (July 8).

"His nomination as house ambassador reflects his commitment to artistry and his distinctive personal style, both of which resonate with the maison’s dedication to unique expression in fashion and culture," the label stated in a press release, according to WWD.

The statement continued, "Pusha’s role as house ambassador highlights Louis Vuitton’s vision of integrating diverse cultural influences to create compelling storytelling within its renowned menswear universe. The maison eagerly anticipates this exciting collaborative journey ahead."

Our take: Pusha T's appointment as Louis Vuitton's new house ambassador is a smart move by the French luxury brand. This collaboration highlights Pusha T's influence and unique style, aligning with Louis Vuitton's embrace of diverse cultural influences.

Known for blending street style with high fashion, Pusha T is an ideal fit for Louis Vuitton's menswear. His role signifies a fusion of music, fashion, and culture, showcasing the brand's dedication to modern luxury.

Louis Vuitton's choice reflects its forward-thinking vision and recognition of cultural icons' impact on fashion. This partnership is a testament to the evolving fashion landscape, where authenticity and cultural relevance are key. Pusha T's ambassadorship promises to bring fresh perspectives to Louis Vuitton, making this an exciting collaboration to watch.

Nirvana and luxury fashion house Marc Jacobs settle lawsuit over smiley-face logo

Nirvana, Marc Jacobs, and art director Robert Fisher have settled a lawsuit over a logo resembling Nirvana’s iconic smiley face. The dispute began in 2018 when Nirvana sued Marc Jacobs for using a similar smiley face in its “Redux Grunge” collection. The logo on the shirt substituted 'M' and 'J' for 'X's as eyes, with the word "Heaven" in a font akin to Nirvana’s.

The original logo was allegedly created by Nirvana’s Kurt Cobain in 1991, but uncertainty about its origins was highlighted in Marc Jacobs' countersuit, where Dave Grohl and Krist Novoselic admitted they were unsure. In 2019, Marc Jacobs argued this lack of clarity weakened Nirvana’s infringement claim.

Nirvana’s legal team contended that Marc Jacobs deliberately used the logo to associate the “Bootleg Redux Grunge” collection with the band, enhancing its grunge theme’s authenticity. In 2020, former Nirvana art director Robert Fisher claimed he designed the logo, adding complexity to the case.

In 2023, US District Judge John Kronstadt ruled that if Fisher created the logo, Geffen Records would own it, but he didn’t determine the true creator. The parties reached a settlement mediated by Magistrate Judge Steve Kim, with undisclosed terms to be finalized within 21 days.

Our take: The settlement between Nirvana, Marc Jacobs, and art director Robert Fisher marks a significant moment at the crossroads of fashion, music, and intellectual property. This legal clash, ignited by Marc Jacobs’ use of a logo resembling Nirvana’s iconic smiley face, highlights the complexities of copyright in creative industries.

Nirvana’s lawsuit initially emphasized the band’s claim to the smiley face logo, attributed to Kurt Cobain. Uncertainty over its origins, noted by Dave Grohl and Krist Novoselic, complicated the legal proceedings and Marc Jacobs' defense. This ambiguity reflects broader challenges in proving ownership and intent in copyright cases involving symbols tied to cultural movements like grunge.

The arguments from both sides reveal contrasting views on cultural symbols in fashion. Nirvana argued Marc Jacobs exploited the band’s legacy for profit, highlighting music’s role in shaping fashion. Marc Jacobs defended its design within a grunge-themed collection, albeit contentious.

Robert Fisher’s claim to designing the logo added complexity, questioning authorship and collaborative roles in defining intellectual property. US District Judge John Kronstadt’s ruling, while not definitive on the logo’s creator, underscores the complexities of ownership in collaborative creative processes.

The mediated settlement, overseen by Magistrate Judge Steve Kim, signifies a compromise among all parties, with undisclosed terms. This resolution provides closure on a contentious issue while prompting reflection on artistry, copyright, and the nexus of music and fashion.

Debut expands partnership with L’Oréal for bio-identical beauty ingredients

The California biotechnology startup has entered into an agreement with L’Oréal to develop over a dozen bio-identical ingredients. These will replace conventional ingredients currently used in L’Oréal’s global range of skincare, haircare, makeup, and fragrance products.

In this collaboration, Debut will utilize its advanced biomanufacturing processes, combining fermentation and cell-free technology, to produce a new generation of cosmetic ingredients.

Joshua Britton, Ph.D., Founder and CEO of Debut, emphasized, "Producing bio-identical ingredients at scale supports global biodiversity conservation and ensures responsible ingredient supply chains, all while maintaining high standards of quality and product performance."

Faced with challenges like climate change, increasing pollution, and the ongoing strain on natural resources, L’Oréal has opted for green sciences to develop more sustainable products that meet consumer demands for effectiveness and environmental responsibility.

Our take: The partnership between the California biotech startup and L’Oréal to develop bio-identical ingredients is a major step towards sustainability in the beauty industry. By using advanced biomanufacturing to replace traditional ingredients, Debut and L’Oréal are innovating while addressing critical environmental challenges.

Joshua Britton’s focus on biodiversity conservation and responsible ingredient supply chains highlights their dedication to sustainability, which aligns with global priorities. As consumer demand for eco-friendly products increases, this collaboration demonstrates L’Oréal’s proactive approach in meeting these expectations without compromising product quality.

In response to issues like climate change and resource scarcity, L’Oréal’s shift towards green sciences is commendable, showing a strategic response to environmental concerns. This approach not only meets consumer demands for effective products but also reduces the environmental footprint associated with traditional manufacturing.