Quick Facts

• Over 4,000 flights canceled at Dubai International Airport since Middle East conflict began March 1, stranding fast fashion shipments
• Freight charges from Mumbai to Austria have doubled, with airlines charging 30-40% premiums as capacity declines
• More than half of Bangladesh’s air cargo and 41% of India’s travels via Gulf airlines including Emirates and Qatar Airways

Fast fashion garments are piling up at airports across South Asia as the Middle East conflict forces airlines to cancel thousands of flights, disrupting supply chains for major retailers including Zara owner Inditex.

More than 4,000 flights have been canceled at Dubai International Airport since the conflict began March 1. Abu Dhabi’s airport has canceled over 1,000 flights during the same period. Emirates, Qatar Airways and Etihad Airways have suspended most operations.

“Some of my apparel consignments are currently stuck at Dhaka airport,” said Shovon Islam, managing director of manufacturer Sparrow Group, whose European clients include Inditex, M&S, Next and Primark. “They were supposed to be flown to the UK via Dubai, but with operations at Dubai airport suspended, we are now in a very difficult position.”

The disruption hits South Asian manufacturers hard. More than half of Bangladesh’s air cargo travels via the Gulf, and 41% of India’s follows the same route. Inditex alone has 150 suppliers in Bangladesh, 122 in India and 69 in Pakistan.

Freight costs have spiked across the board. Charges to fly products from Mumbai to Austria have doubled. Airlines are charging premiums of 30% to 40% for European shipments as capacity shrinks. War-risk surcharges now range from $1,500 to $3,000 per standard container.

“The whole freight capacity is being blocked now on the airlines that are flying, so prices are increasing,” said a Mumbai-based manufacturer.

Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association, warned of broader impacts. “The suspension of cargo flights due to airspace closures in the Middle East is already disrupting air shipments,” he said. “All in all, we are worried – we can see another major crisis ahead.”

The conflict has also disrupted sea freight. Denmark’s Maersk suspended all new bookings between the Indian subcontinent and Upper Gulf markets, citing the “evolving situation.” More than 1,000 containers are stranded at Chattogram Port and other regional facilities.

Emirates expects to return to full flight capacity in the “coming days,” while Qatar has partially reopened its airspace with limited capacity. Commercial flights to and from Doha remain suspended.

When asked about disruptions, Primark, H&M and M&S said most of their shipments travel by sea. Inditex did not respond to questions about the impact on its operations.

Read more: Fast Fashion Garments Pile Up in South Asia as Middle East Conflict Grounds Planes